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COMMUNITY
Emu

Why should I get an EMU?

January 11, 2025 (updated January 11, 2025)

Why should I get an EMU?

EmuEmu are the tallest native bird to Australia and second to the ostrich as the largest existing species of birds in the world. With an average adult height of 6 feet tall, emu grow extremely long legs and necks. Females, at adult age, will typically be larger than females and will exhibit a unique and amazing drumming sound. On average, the life expectancy of domestic emu is 25-28 years old. In the wild, adults have been recorded to reach a running speed of 50 km/hr. 

Although we are fairly new to owing an emu, we are doing lots of research and hope to share some of our knowledge. 

BREEDING:

Most emu are not sexually mature until after 2 years old. At that point, many peers have reported that females can fight and are best separated but multiple males together appears to work. Here in Alberta, most breeders report finding eggs in January and then sometimes again in early summer, around June. Naturally, winter egg laying can lead to a fun game of finding the large green eggs before they freeze. 

FEEDING:

Emu belong to a group of flightless birds called ratites. Many other parts of the world have a feed called ratite feed but we have been unable to find this in Alberta. After doing research, we have decided on this diet for Ernie:

Chicken grower feed / rabbit (alfalfa based) feed / black oil sunflowers 

Although we have been unsuccessful in feeding fruit, Ernie does love a good dandelion, plantain or clover weed. 

BEHAVIOR:

Having an emu on the far or multiple emu, will definitely provide lots of laughs. Ernie spends his days doing speed laps and then dancing. Nothing prepares you for the sight of an emu dancing. 

In our experience, they like to spend majority of their time outside and even often sleep outside. We piled a bunch of straw in Ernie’s favourite outside spot. 

Emu are VERY curious! Ernie loves anything shiny or new and just cant resist your hair. But, when handled regularly at a young age, they can be very sweet. Yes, Ernie now gives hugs and has very nicely adjusted to my forced love!

Category: Emu
Published by Jamie H.
shop farm fresh

What we learned about incubating eggs…

February 24, 2022 (updated January 15, 2025)

Incubating eggs is one of the most fascinating experiences ever! I truly feel that everyone should take the time to watch the process take place. We have the Little Giant 41 egg incubator and have had pretty good success rates. 

Here is some of what we learned after going through the incubation process on our farm:

  1. Always add an extra thermostat and humidity gauge inside the incubator as many do not read effectively. Our Little Giant screen shows an accurate temperature but the humidity is typically off by about 15-20%. 
  2. Buy the separate egg turner if your incubator does not automatically do that. If not, you will need to manually turn the eggs to ensure the yolk does not stick to one side.
  3. Always ensure the pointy end of the egg is facing down. With the eggs that are hard to tell, I just had to guess.
  4. I learned quickly to number each egg on the side of the egg. This allows you to see the number when you enter lockdown and the eggs are placed on their side. 
  5. Once any chicks start to hatch they knock the rest of the eggs around all over the place. I didn't expect them to be so active and placed the eggs in a perfect order at lockdown. That was quickly messed up and was totally unnecessary.
  6. At lockdown, we add water to increase the humidity but find it doesn't increase too much (maybe to 50%) and then as soon as one hatches it increases more quickly. Be careful not to get water on the eggs as they are porous. 
  7. We had this image of all eggs hatching on day 21 and that has never happened. We have had some hatch on day 20 and many come on day 22 and even a few on day 23. After day 23, I personally candle any remaining eggs to see if there is any activity. 
  8. We found the pipping and hatching stage to be quite stressful and so exciting! Do not open the incubator after lockdown. For some reason, you need to do it very quickly and even consider adding a moist warm paper towel in to keep humidity from dropping too much.
  9. When hatching is done, check the left over eggs and egg shells carefully. I say this because I was in the process of cleaning out the incubator when I heard a sudden squick. Turns out that there was a small egg inside the broken half of another egg so we thought it had hatched. This little one was pipping inside the broken shell and couldn't get out. Now we check the left over eggs very carefully. 
  10. One other tip we recommend is to take out the red ventilation caps at lockdown. We took one out at lockdown and then the second at hatching so there is ventilation available for the chicks. 

Category: Farm Talk
Published by Jaime P.

Is Earlobe Colour a Myth?

February 23, 2022 (updated March 10, 2022)

For many years, poultry farmers have believed that the earlobe colour in hens is directly related to the egg colour they will lay. As time passed, this has been a topic of debate. Earlobe colours can range from white to brown to red and even blue or blue-green. For examples, many Silkies have blue ear lobes but do not lay blue eggs. Current chicken breeders seem to have little faith in this old myth but continue to hope when they see a coloured earlobe that the future egg will have a spectacular hue.  Unfortunately for us, our blue earlobes fowl, Blue, lays cream-light brown coloured eggs.

Category: Farm Talk
Published by Jaime P.

Meet the Animals

February 20, 2022 (updated February 21, 2022)

Let’s take a few minutes to introduce you to our furry and feathery babies! 

PIPER:
Piper is our 13 year old shih-zhu/maltese cross. She was the first pet we got together. Anyone who knows Piper will tell you she is 100% motivated by food and can be just a little crazy. Our little lady has been taken all over with us including all over British Columbia from Powell River to McBride, through Alberta from Jasper to Edmonton, and across Washington, Oregon, Northern California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas! She's always up for a good rv trip and her favourite place to go is Nana’s house.

GINGER:
Our Ginger is the goofiest of goofs. She is 3.5 years old and apparently a yorkie/pug cross but doesn't really resemble either. Anyone who knows Ginger will tell you she is motivated by emotion and will give you more kisses than you could ever handle. Like Piper, Ginger is one well traveled dog. We took her on our road trip to Texas at 5 months old and she did great! Her favourite thing is to have her ears cleaned by her big sister, Piper. 

NEVADA:
Nevada is our baby and I think no matter how old she is she will always be the baby. She is a 2 year old pure breed Lhasa Apso that we brought home as an unexpected souvenir on a road trip from Nevada. This little one is super cuddly to the point she will do her best to get as close to your face as possible. Like Piper, Nevada is motivated by food and her favourite activity is going to bed…seriously…she gets so excited to go to bed that she spins around. 

FRANKIE:
Frankie is our 6 year old Fire Belly Toad. She is a vivacious cricket hunter and lives in our family room where we can talk to her daily and she even reacts to our voices. 

CATFISH:
Well, well…there is a LONG story associated with this guy. Catfish is our 26 year old rafael catfish. If I had ever thought he would live that long, I certainly would have given him a better name than Catfish. He is shy and spends most of his days in his black pvc pipe but don’t underestimate him; there is a reason why Catfish doesn't have any roommates!

SYLVESTER (AKA: SLY)
Sylvester or Sly as we call him is our rooster. He is approximately 8 months old and is a big boy reaching over 20 inches tall. We got him from a local farmer who hatched too many roosters and he was the youngster and getting picked on. He joined our coop and now has lots of hens of his own. He crows in the morning and every time he hears us and makes all sorts of noises when he needs to warn his ladies of possible danger. He is friendly and a little spoiled; someone (not naming names) taught him to eat of his hands and now he thinks that should happen everyday. 

THE LADIES:
The Hagon Farms pet coop is made up of a variety of awesome hens! Our four buff orpington came to us from another farm where they had too many roosters. They are feisty and love to scavenge and dig around all day long. We have a group of 9 barn yard mixes that are all less than a year old. Reba is obsessed with food and although she isn't the biggest hen she certainly eats the most. Then there is Vanna White who is the loudest hen we have. She is a big lady and makes sure everyone knows about her but likes us to pet her too. Penny and Dolly are wyandottes and they are our kindest hens; they are quiet and like to have dust baths. Wynonna and Meredith are lavender wyandottes and can be a little knotty. Betty is our smaller white bym but has surprised us with her super mouse hunting skills. Oprah and Apple are black wyandottes and originally were very spicy but have settled nicely into great nighttime cuddles for the smaller hens. 

THE LITTLEST LADIES:
These ladies have stolen our hearts. Ren, Stimpy, Blue and Queen are game or jungle fowl. They might be tiny but they have so much energy and are so kind. It took some time for the big hens to accept them but now they forage together daily and when dark hits all 4 sneak in right underneath a big hens for extra heat and cuddles and we can barely see them accept the tips of their tails. 

Category: Farm Talk
Published by Jaime P.

Chicken Saddles?

February 19, 2022 (updated February 21, 2022)

Yes there is such thing as chicken saddles but they definitely aren't for us to ride our hens! Chicken saddles are cloth or canvas back covers with stretchy straps that go around each wing. The main purpose of this unique creation is to protect the back of hens that have become the “favorite” of your rooster. When a rooster mounts one particular hen often he can pull feathers off her back and leave her with a bare back. The feathers can be very sensitive and even bleed. Continuous mounting makes it difficult for those feathers to grow back. With a chicken saddle on it protects the hen from further damage and gives her feathers a chance to grow back. Also, they are super cute! 

Category: Chicken Health
Published by Jaime P.

Do I Need a Rooster?

February 17, 2022 (updated February 17, 2022)

There are many advantages to having a rooster but the only reason you NEED a rooster is if you would like your eggs fertilized for chick production. But choosing to have a rooster has many advantages. Having one rooster in a smaller flock can be extremely advantageous. Firstly, our rooster, Sylvester (aka Sly) does everything he can to protect his hens. He makes various noises to warn the hens to run inside their coop if he hears or sees another animal around. We find he then sits at the coop door with the hens waiting behind him for him to give them the go ahead. 

Secondly, he does a great job at ensuring that our hens do not fight. He has broken up fights when the ladies are getting annoyed with one another. We have been told that without a rooster a head hen can take on this position but this is not something we have any experience with. 

Interestingly, we have also found that our big guy even show hens where to lay when they have decided not to lay in their nesting box. Sly will go to a box and go in and out of it several times right after a hen has laid outside of the boxes. 

In contrast, there are several disadvantages that can arise when a rooster(s) is added to the flock. It’s extremely important to ensure that you do not have too many roosters for the number of hens. If you end up with too many roosters they are likely to fight over hens and they can even fight to death. In addition, you will find that the roosters will mount the same hens too much resulting in bare backs and feather loss in the hens. As you have read above, there are definitely pros and cons to having a rooster and each situation will be different. 

Category: Chicken Health
Published by Jaime P.
do chickens need supplemental heat

Do Chickens need Supplemental Heat?

February 17, 2022 (updated February 17, 2022)

This is a question of much debate in the poultry industry. Many chicken breeds are naturally quite cold hardy but it always important to research your breed to ensure that you are aware if they have any specific needs. Even in cold areas, many chicken owners feel that providing artificial heat alters a chickens natural adaptability. For those that do choose to make their flock more comfortable and continue to be winter layers there are various heating options available that we have researched. 

Heat lamps are the long term standard in the industry but many fear the risk of fire. Based on our experience, we have found that if you choose to use heat lamps it is important to ensure that they are high enough that the chickens are not hitting them or knocking into them. In addition, using the metal casing and a higher quality bulb help as well. There are two options for the heat bulbs, clear or red. We learned very quickly that clear wasn't working for our flock. These bulbs were bright and our ladies and gent were partying 24/7. We switched to red bulbs and they now sleep again. 

A newer option that has become very popular is a cozy coop. This is a heat releasing mat with little fire risk but note that they release limited heat and heat can only be felt right in front of the mat. I think that the cozy coop may be a great solution with a small coop with only a hand full of chickens but was not a feasible solution for us. 

Category: Chicken Health
Published by Jaime P.
overwintering chickens

Overwintering with Chickens

February 15, 2022 (updated February 17, 2022)

Depending on where you live overwintering your chickens successfully can be very complicated and a little scary. From our experience and research, we learned that chickens are much hardier than most people expect. Most regular or large size chickens can withstand cold winters without supplemental heat but, if you would like winter egg laying, then several winter techniques are needed. Supplemental lighting to provide a light/dark schedule similar to other times of the year seems to be necessary for winter laying. In addition, many chicken keepers also feel that supplemental heat aids in egg laying. 

Personally, we found that supplemental heat helped our chickens look more comfortable and energetic in our cold winters. We definitely agree that chickens are hardy and we didn't want to disrupt their natural adaptations, so we set our supplemental heat to come on if the inside coop temperature drops below -13C. 

Another tricky subject in cold winters and more humid environments, is to prevent frostbite on the combs, wattles and feet of your chickens. Although minor frostbite seems to cause little distress to the chicken, major frostbite can be very serious and even result in loss of toes or feet. Frostbite in chickens tends to entirely related to the humidity within the coop. To keep the humidity low (in relation to the outside ambient humidity) the key is to install ventilation in the coop.

Fresh, unfrozen water is important for all living organisms. There are a variety of chicken waterers with heating mechanisms available at most feed stores ranging from heated pet bowls to heated chicken nipple waterers. Our choice has been a heated pet bowl and then a 5 gallon pail with cross nipples around the bottom with a bird bath heater submersed.

The last problem that comes up is frozen eggs! The easiest solution is to collect your eggs as often as possible throughout the day. Another trick we have found is to not have rollaway nest boxes. This means the eggs stay in the nest for the next hen to lay on top and keep them warmer.

Category: Chicken Health
Published by Jaime P.
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